October 2, 2018
For the past several days, we have been all alone on the trail for over an hour each morning, but not this morning. The trail was fairly crowded off and on all day, as I’d expected.
We started off in the dark with a woman from Mexico who we’d been seeing occasionally for over a week. Today I learned her name is Susannah. She shared her life story with me as we walked, although when she told me she was walking the Camino to figure some things out, she didn’t share what “things.” She did say she was returning to her life in a happy state of mind. We talked about the “magic” of the Camino (her word ) and how to take that magic back into our real lives. After probably an hour or more of walking and talking, we separated. I asked to take her photo and then she was gone. We had talked so candidly and will never see each other again since she is finishing on Friday.
We walked on and met Bob and Andrew, who we hadn’t seen in many days, then Jackie and John, from Britain and then a couple from New Zealand (can’t remember their names). Each meeting was like seeing a best friend who you haven’t seen in a while. Such is life on the Camino.
In Portomarin, we found an albergue, Casa Cruz, and then went out to explore. The city is built up high overlooking a river (very high…with many steps to climb).
In the 1950s, a dam was built upriver and when water was released, the whole city would be flooded, so the city was rebuilt higher up. The church, built in the twelfth century was dismantled and the stones were numbered as it was taken apart. Then it was put back together on higher ground. Many of the numbers are still visible on the stones.
Here’s something strange. About two weeks ago, we met a French couple, Philip and Genevieve. We saw them day after day on the trail and then one day we saw Philip walking alone. Then they both disappeared. Tonight Philip appeared in our albergue, alone again.