DAY 26: Cacabelos to Vega de Valvarce


The Camino is generally well-marked with yellow arrows painted on the road or walls or signposts, along with a multitude of signs. However, it’s obvious the markings were posted during daylight hours. When we leave in the dark, as we do every morning, everything looks different and it can be difficult to find an arrow or sign hidden on the side of the road with just the light of a headlamp. We had some trouble finding our way this morning. We struggled along, sometimes just making good guesses as to the correct way. Whenever we did that, when we found an arrow/sign farther down the road, we breathed a sigh of relief. At one point, we reached a town with a conch-shell sign, but no arrow, so we weren’t sure on which street the sign meant us to turn. We kept straight and found no further signs. Luckily, a man came out of a house (it was early, all the other houses were dark) and Enrique could ask for directions. We would have found it eventually, but we were definitely off-course at that point.
Signs of the Camino:
The best scenery was probably going by us when we walked in the dark. We were going through farms and vineyards and rolling hills. By the time the sun came up, we were on a concrete trail that went along a river on one side and the road on the other. We followed that to our destination, Vega de Valvarce.
Last night’s albergue was almost perfect. It had everything on my list except one thing I forgot to put on the list…a steady stream of water in the shower. A lot of showers here have a button which must be pushed continually to keep the water coming. Tonight we are at Pension Fernandez. It’s also a very nice albergue, but we’re back in a communal room. So far there are 8 people in the room, but it’s not full and people keep straggling in. It’s next to a little running river in a picturesque town.
One woman here is from Japan. She took a bus here from Madrid yesterday, intending to start the Camino here today, but then decided to rest today because she got her period. Now she has a little cough and might take tomorrow off, too. I hope she can make it. She’s starting in a very difficult place. Tomorrow’s walk is uphill the whole way.

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