September 19, 2018
Every town in Spain has a church. Some towns have several. (The photo above is one of the churches in Fromista, built in 1066). The churches are all old and beautiful, with spires rising high above all the other buildings. In the flat landscape that we’re now walking in, the church spires can be seen from far away. That’s a problem because we spot the church and know that our destination is ahead, but then we walk many more miles before we actually get to town.
The trail split today in one section, with one route going along the river (longer) and one along the highway (shorter). We chose the river because it would be prettier, even though it was still dark, before sunrise. No one else chose that route, so we walked on a nice dirt road by ourselves for quite a while before merging with the other route and then arriving in town.
It was a short walk of 12 miles today, so we got to town at 11:00. There are only three albergues here in Carrion de los Condes, and all three are Catholic albergues run by the nuns of the church. We are staying in the church of Santa Maria. Unfortunately, the albergue didn’t open until noon, so we put our backpacks in the line to hold our spot and went to sit in a park with Carlos and Anya and then joined by Michelle and Gabby. Once the albergue opened, we waited in line for our beds, and then waited for the one and only shower. Luckily, the nuns had tea and snacks for us as we waited.
The town’s name, Carrion de Los Condes, comes from the legend of El Cid (we saw his statue in Burgos). According to the legend, Cid’s daughters married counts from this area and Cid had them killed because they tried to rob him. Condes means counts.
This is a cute little town, unlike Fromista, which was kind of run-down. After lunch and siesta, we went to a guitar concert in a small church. The guitarist was from Norway and he was very good.